1. Retributor Armor (Base) – Basecoat, I would recommend going thinner with this paint and multiple layers because Games Workshop metallics are typically very thick. Shake very, very well (and I advise an agitant.)
    1. For a rose gold color, basecoat Screaming Bell (Base) instead.
    2. For a deeper gold color, basecoat Balthasar Gold (Base) instead.
  2. Reikland Fleshshade (Shade) – Wash the model extensively. I’d let a lot of it pool in the details and recesses as much as possible. The red from this shade really makes the gold pop and multiple lighter coats with a focus on the details can look amazing.
    1. For a dirtier gold, try a wash of Agrax Earthshade (Shade) after you do the Reikland.
    2. If you want a less vibrant gold, you can try Agrax Earthshade (Shade) instead of the Reikland.
    3. For an oilier gold, try a wash of Nuln Oil (Shade) instead of Reikland.
  3. Auric Armour Gold (Layer) – Hit all the raised areas of the gold with a layer of Auric Armour Gold. This paint is fickle and requires a LOT of shaking and thinning but provides an amazing look on the Retributor Gold (Base) basecoat.
    1. For a deeper looking gold, layer with Gehenna’s Gold (Layer) instead, if you want you can do this layer before the wash to make the final result darker.
  4. Liberator Gold (Layer) – Edge highlight all of the gold with this to really make it pop out.
    1.  If you are drybrushing, hit it with Golden Griffon (Dry) instead, you don’t need a lot of this paint for a drastic effect.
    2. For a more worn or shiny gold, you can try Runefang Steel (Layer) to edge highlight instead.
    3. If you’re doing a deeper gold and layered Gehenna’s Gold (Layer) instead of Auric Armour Gold (Layer), try edging it with Auric Armour Gold (Layer) now and then hitting the points that light strikes with a fine Runefang Steel (Layer) edge.

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