I’m tempted to start compiling all of my notes I’ve acquired over the years from all of the Citadel books, White Dwarfs, and online guides for Citadel paint material recipes. I’ve got spreadsheets upon spreadsheets and written notes everywhere.
An example is provided below, possibly with pictures down the line if I get my hands on a better camera.
- Leadbelcher (Base) – Basecoat, I would recommend going thinner and multiple layers particularly with this paint. Leadbelcher (Base) (like most metallics) is super thick and can obscure details if unthinned.
- Nuln Oil (Shade) – Wash thick, don’t let run but do let pool. Extra layers of wash can make for nice, dark Irons.
- After Washing, try another layer of Leadbelcher (Base) over raised areas for cleaner Iron. If you want brighter and cleaner Iron, try Ironbreaker (Layer) instead.
- You can also apply a light Agrax Earthshade (Shade) wash after the Nuln Oil (Shade) dries to create dirty metal that looks like its been used extensively. This is good to do for metal that contacts dirt (IE: iron boots.) This can be done out of pot, or 50/50 with Lahmian Medium (Technical). Progress the wash and do fewer layers as you move up.
- Runefang Steel (Layer) – Highlight edges, pay attention to raised details particularly.
- For drybrushing, use Necron Compound (Dry).
- For added rust/weathering effects, try drybrushing Ryza Rust (Dry) or Nihilakh Oxide (Technical) onto raised details. In particular, the Nihilakh Oxide should be used very lightly on Iron.
- For glowing effects, try using any of Citadel’s glazes. They’re great for weapons or armor that are supposed to look “enchanted” or power weapons.
- For burnt Iron, after the highlight step up Nuln Oil (Shade) washes progressively (gradient them layer by layer) and end with a light Agrax Earthshade (Shade) wash on the darkest edge. Looks amazing on flamethrowers.
I would love to provide this kind of information to my readers if they want it. So if you’re interested, please let me know with a like or a comment and share this.